It’s a peculiar problem since you the tail lights work fine when you drive but hitting the brake produces no response from the rear lights. The Reasons for Brake Lights Not Working but Tail Lights Are
The cops will also flag you if they see you are during without functioning lights. It can cause severe accidents, especially on dark streets or during heavy rain and snow.
#2004 explorer dashlights not working drivers#
If any of them does not work, other drivers behind you won’t see if you are moving or not. It is so because you won’t know what is happening in the backside while driving until someone points it out.īoth brake and tail lights are crucial for road safety. It takes a long time to notice when the brake lights not working but tail lights are or vice versa. I don’t usually like to speculate and take guesses, but I am 99% sure you could just go to autozone and throw this $5 part at your problem and save yourself a lot of testing:ĭorman/Conduct-Tite 15 Amps 180 Watts fused 3 position push-pull switchĪlthough not mentioned, I am willing to bet that your HVAC temperature control head lights are also inoperative.Driving at night with either brake lights or tail lights not working is dangerous for you and other drivers on the road. If ‘low voltage’, locate damaged wire or connection and repair. Again, make sure headlamp switch is in “Head” to energize the circuit. Pull the instrument panel and test for voltage at pin “J” (gray wire in connector C1). If all the stuff in the green box works, then go straight to test point #5.
For all measurements, make sure the headlamp switch is in “Head.” Probe into the wires and test for voltage. 200 level electrical connections are located inside the vehicle under the dash. Back trace color coded wires from easy to get to devices until you locate the splice pack. If voltage, then locate splice pack S203. If some or none of these devices work, then you will need to pull the headlamp switch and test for voltage at pin “H” (gray wire). Test points 3 & 4 can be easily tested if all the stuff in the green highlighted box works. Make sure the headlamp switch is in “Head.” If no voltage, perform wire repair. Use schematic color coding to back track from easy to get to devices and locate the splice point and test for voltage. 200 level connections are located inside the vehicle under the dash. You should locate this splice pack and probe into the wires and test for voltage. There is a pretty hefty splice point at S212 (Test point #2).
Hopefully at this point your problem is solved. Pull the switch, turn it to “Head” and test for continuity between pins “O” and “I” (pins associated with ‘orange’ and ‘grey/black’ wires). Therefore, the easiest place to start and the most likely cause of the problem will be the headlamp switch. There appears to be in inline fuse inside the headlamp switch that I am confident is a common point of failure (test point #1). **Anything in the orange highlighted circuit will knock out both your radio and your instrument panel lights. Test points are numbered 1 through 5 in descending order of priority. The stuff marked in blue are your instrument panel lights. Your problem is as follows:Īnd these are the specific circuits that affect the aforementioned inoperative devices:
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